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Understanding Gold Purity: Why Rings Aren’t Made with 100% Gold

Why Are Rings Not Pure Gold?

The origins of Gold as a symbol of beauty and wealth trace back to early humanity. Whilst pure Gold that is classified as 24 carat is the most desired from an investment standpoint, the same is not true for buyers of jewellery. So why are rings not made of pure gold?

As it may seem strange that a gold ring is made of a mix of metals, there is several reasons to why it is beneficial for rings to be made of a mix of metals which includes gold. In fact, some low-purity gold coins have more base metal than gold! Let’s explore the reasons why this is the case

Rings: Why Not Pure Gold?

Most people would assume that a Gold ring is made of Gold, why would the Goldsmiths need to put any other metals into the ring’s alloy? Let’s explore why Gold rings are not pure Gold:

Malleability

Gold is a soft metal, making it easy for jewelers to shape, but also prone to scratches and dents. To improve durability, harder metals like copper and silver are mixed in, creating stronger alloys for everyday wear.

Longevity

Gold is highly resistant to destruction but can lose shape over time due to daily wear. Alloys with lower purity (22, 18, 14, and 9 carats) offer a balance between toughness and gold content, helping preserve jewelry for longer.

Price Point

Pure gold rings are more expensive than those with lower carat alloys. Lower-carat rings provide an affordable option while still offering the aesthetic beauty of gold, appealing to a range of buyers.

Maintaining Shine

Pure gold loses its shine faster than gold alloys due to its softness. Alloys maintain their polished appearance longer, making them more practical for everyday use. The variation in gold content also allows for different colors like rose gold.

Weight and Practicality

Pure gold is denser and heavier, which can make large jewelry pieces uncomfortable for daily wear. Gold alloys offer a lighter and more practical alternative, especially for larger rings and chains.

Asian Gold rings are typically a much higher purity than the typical western Gold ring. Rings in Thailand are often 23.5ct (96.5% Gold) whilst Indian Gold rings are typically 22ct (91.67%)

Gold ring making

Common purities are 9ct (37.5%), 14ct (58.3%), 18ct (75%) and 22ct (91.67%)

Chinese 'Chuk Kam' rings are the closest to pure Gold. The rings are 99% minimum gold, with a 1% tolerance permitted

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Malleability and Chemical Composition

Gold is a soft metal in comparison to other base metals that we come in to contact with each day. A soft metal makes the manufacturing process much easier for jewellers who need to bend and shape the Gold, however, this makes the alloy prone to scratches and dents when coming into contact with harder base metals such as iron, steel or copper. To offset the soft Gold ring alloy, the jeweller will add harder metals into the ring such as copper and silver. The result is a tougher ring which has more resilience to daily wear.

Gold is unique because it doesn’t easily form chemical bonds with other elements. This means its surface doesn’t develop layers of oxides, unlike metals like copper or silver. Oxides on copper and silver can make their grains more prone to breaking apart. In contrast, the lack of oxides on gold helps it stay softer and more flexible, maintaining its malleability better than many other metals.

Gold’s atomic structure gives it a specific arrangement called a face-centered cubic crystal structure. Since Gold is a metal its atoms are connected by metallic bonds. In these bonds, the outermost electrons have flexibility to move throughout the structure, creating flexibility and conductivity. Instead of being one solid crystal, metals like Gold are usually made up of smaller crystals called “grains”. These grains together to form the material.

Longevity of Gold Rings

Gold cannot be destroyed by anything other than the harshest of acids. However daily wear and tear would cause a Gold ring to lose its shape over time and show signs of damage from wear.

For a ring to be preserved for years the gold content is diluted. Conventional alloys are 22 carat (91.67% purity), 18 carat (75% purity), 14 carat (58.5% purity) and 9 carat (37.5% purity) which each offer their own balance of toughness and gold content.

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Price Point

The different gold ring purities offers diversity to the market.
For instance, whilst pure gold has a yellow-gold hue, rings with made with a higher copper concentration have become popular as ‘rose gold’.

This has even been adopted by the Royal Mint when making modern Sovereigns such as the 2022 Sovereign.

9 carat gold offers a less bright appeal compared to higher gold ring alloys which some buyers may prefer. The different purities offer more choices for buyers as well as allowing for differences in style.

Weight and Practicality

Pure gold is denser and heavier than gold alloys. For larger pieces of jewelry, using pure gold would make them uncomfortably heavy and less practical for everyday wear

Larger pieces of jewellery, especially rings, will come into contact with other hard surfaces. Larger rings will be more prone to strikes on hard surfaces

The higher density of Gold which makes it heavier than other metals, is an even bigger issue for jewellery such as necklaces as a pure Gold chain would become uncomfortable with the larger weight

Price Point

A pure gold ring will have a much higher price point compared to a ring with a lower carat alloy.Whilst some buyers will be willing to offer a higher budget for a purer metal ring, others may be limited to buying a lower ring of a lower carat.

This allows them to enjoy a piece of gold jewellery without needing to compromise on the beauty of the ring’s appearance.

Maintaining Shine

Pure gold tends to lose its shine quicker than gold with a lower purity due to its softness.

Gold alloys, on the other hand, maintain their polished appearance for longer periods, reducing the need for frequent maintenance and polishing. This makes them a more practical choice for everyday wear.

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